Just a heads up - I've got a bunch of new patterns out and ones I am currently working on. Here's a fun one. Orange Crush Market Bag. One skein of yarn, expands like crazy. I seriously put a whole shelf full of yarn into it with room for more. And then I emptied it and folded it up and put it in my pocket. It is specially designed to expand sideways instead of down, so that it doesn't drag. Nifty, eh?
Yarn Carnival is my new pursuit, and what has been keeping me incredibly busy. It is an Austin, TX based indy-dye yarn company, but I also have my own line of knitting accessories as well. Currently, the yarn and accessories can be bought at Hill Country Weavers and The Knitting Nest in Austin, TX, and the accessories can also be found at The Lucky Ewe in New Braunfels, TX. I just bought the domain name for my own website www.yarncarnival.com. I'm building the site now, but it will be up and running soon!
I am undecided about Tunisian crochet (also called afghan crochet.) It is easy, satisfying in it's simplicity, and has a squishy, dense texture. It is also FAST. Sounds great, right? My reservation is in the fact that it is repetitive. Forward row, return row - again and again. But it's speed makes up for that. And it's density makes it ideal for bags - and in this case, an iPad case. Mind you, the fact that I used lovely alpaca/wool yarn in this project helps a BUNCH. In the pattern I have included instructions for creating an iPad case, a large Kindle case, and a small clutch purse.
Get your copy of the pattern for $2: (Ravelry PDF download)
I just popped in to post up a duet of free patterns - more owls. I created a pair of universal patterns for simple one-piece owls, one knitted and one crocheted. These 2 patterns are together in one PDF for FREE DOWNLOAD HERE! (Ravelry.com PDF download.)
I crocheted this bag to demonstrate 4 different granny styles of crochet. It is in 4 colors of Cascade Yarns Luna - lovely, soft cotton yarn that was a dream to crochet. It made me think of my own granny - these were her favorite colors, and she loved hearts (see heart side of the bag below.) The parts of the bag were inspired by Granny Mandala by Crochet with Raymond, the Granny Stripe Blanket by Lucy of Attic24, the Center Heart Square by Ginger Badger. The other side is a basic granny square, for which there are many patterns. I give detailed instructions on crocheting each piece and on the assembly of the bag in my FREE pattern.
Here is the lovely Granny Mandala bottom.
The traditional Granny Square side.
And last, the lovely Center Heart side.
I do give options for creating two regular granny square, or heart square sides. You can see the granny stripe strap in most of the photos.
I have just finished with ANOTHER crochet pattern (I know!) It is for a Snowy Owl, or any of the owls in the Bubo genus. It is just a nice owl-shaped owl, and I originally made it for my son, Badger. I took notes the whole time I was stitching, and it turned out so well that I want to make the pattern available.
Errata: I found 3 errors in the pattern and these have been corrected. Any new download will have the corrected version, and all those who have bought a copy have been sent a new version.
In the directions to the body of the owl: Line 29: stitch count should read (30). Line 30: count is (24). Line 31: Count is (18). Line 32: Count is (12). Added Line 33: sc2tog to the end of the round (6)
In the directions to the wings: Line 5: repeat bracketed instructions twice. Line 8: sc 6 instead of 7. You can download it here for $5:
I just finished writing up the pattern for his afghan block that I designed for the January installment of the afghan block crochet-along at The Knitting Nest in Austin, TX. I have never done a design for an afghan block, other than a granny square - so I was surprised that it worked so well. Pretty, no?
I will never rule the world because I put WAY too many things on my to-do list and then fret about getting them all done in the time frame that I have allotted myself. That, and because I think that wool food is funny. Not just amusing, but knees-collapsing falling on the floor funny. Why? I am clueless as to why, but I will note that perhaps I am just very easily amused. Here is the corn that escaped having it's picture taken.
Here is the bag that all of those lovely wool veg got to wear.
Here is the pile of pattern pieces and cut fabric and interfacing for my son's present. NINETEEN pattern pieces for this bad boy, some of which had to be cut out 8 times. All of which were cut at least twice. This is why it took 3 mornings to cut all of them out. Another whole morning was spent just ironing on the interfacing or fusible fleece. I'm unsure whether or not I like the fusible fleece; it gives a nice layer of batting to quilt but it also makes the texture of the fabric that it was fused to a bit rough.
Here's what I did yesterday. The body took a whole bag of poly-fill to stuff it. The wings are almost done, and not attached yet. There is an awful lot of hand-finishing that this pattern requires, but that is the part I enjoy.
The head of the dragon, missing needle sculpting, eyes, tongue, and horns.
Matt was helping my dad pick something up from a church yard sale and found an interesting pile of craft things. These are the two embroidery hoops he found. Yes, that is a 12" ruler on the smaller one.
Three little girl sewing patterns - in sizes to fit Rose.
A huge box of acrylic (mostly) yarn and a few crocheted items.
A 13 gallon trash bag full of plastic canvas yarn - very crunchy stuff.
Did you know that Amoco made yarn? Me neither. (Amoco is a gas/petrochem company here in the U.S. for those who didn't know.)
I've got two. Lucky me. I guess I will crochet funkiness from all of this stuff. Mind you, there was a nifty baby cardigan kit from 1971, complete with a finished back and one of the fronts. There were even British size 10 metal needles still in it. Crunchy blue acrylic yarn, but still a nifty find. Also some ultra funky Nottingham lace panels for applique. Had never seen these before either.
There you have it. I will never rule the world because I give myself lots more to do than I think, I am too easily amused, and I am clearly not omniscient - see Amoco yarn comment.
As you see, I am easily amused. I knit not one, but two of these pickles out of two different batches of handspun. Same colors, blended slightly differently, the first made out of a singles, the second 2-ply. The first was done on size 1 needles, the second size 4. One is a gherkin, the other a big dill pickle. Both have short rows and random purl stitches. Now, why should you have a pickle ornament? Well, its supposedly traditional in Germany - however people from Germany never seem to have heard of it (read here for myth debate); but mostly its just funny. A fuzzy pickle just seemed extraordinarily funny to me. Here's how you make one:
Short-row Pickle:
Materials:
25-50 yards of green yarn in your chosen weight (one whole skein will give you lots.) I used handspun wool that I blended and spun myself.
For large: light worsted/ dk-weight yarn (thick and thin yarns make for bumpier pickles) For small: fingering weight yarn
Set of 4 or 5 dpns (you will only use 4 total)
For large: I used Size 4 (US) 3.5 mm For small: I used Size 1 (US) 2.25 mm
Gauge (largely unimportant - you'll just want it tight enough so that the stuffing doesn't show): For large: 5.5 sts/in. For small: 8 sts/in.
Notes: Adding random purl sts makes a really nice bumpy pickle. If you use a thick-and-thin yarn or slubbyhandspun, purling into a thick stitch makes for a very satisfying bump. Also, this pattern uses short rows to make the pickle curve - a good practice piece for short rows if you've never tried them, especially short rows in the round. For a tutorial click here. Just remember to pick up and knit your wraps or you will have holes that the stuffing will show through. Adding dill seeds to your stuffing material will make it pickle-scented.
Directions: Cast on 3 sts. Work 2 rows of I-cord. Row 3: Knit into the front and back (Kf&b)of all sts. (6 sts.) Spread sts over 3 dpns. Row 4: Knit all sts. (6 sts.) Row 5: Kf&b all sts. (12 sts.) Row 6: Knit all sts. (12 sts.) Row 7 Kf&b all sts. (24 sts.) Row 8: Knit all sts. (24) Row 9: K 18, wrap&turn (w&t), purl 12, w&t, k to end of round. Row 10 : K all sts. Row 11: K 18, wrap&turn (w&t), purl 12, w&t, k to end of round. Row 12: K all sts. Row 13: K 18, wrap&turn (w&t), purl 12, w&t, k to end of round. Rows 14-16: K all sts. Row 17: K 18, wrap&turn (w&t), purl 12, w&t, k to end of round. Rows 18-29: Repeat Rows 14-17 3 times. Row 30: K all sts. Row 31: K 18, wrap&turn (w&t), purl 12, w&t, k to end of round. Row 32: K all sts. Row 33: K 18, wrap&turn (w&t), purl 12, w&t, k to end of round. Row 34: K all sts. Row 35: K 18, wrap&turn (w&t), purl 12, w&t, k to end of round.
Stuff pickle lightly, but firmly enough to maintain shape
Row 36: K2tog all sts. (12 sts.) Row 37: K all sts. Row 38: K2tog all sts. (6 sts.) Row 39: K all sts. Row 40: K2tog all sts. (3 sts.)
Finishing: Break yarn , leaving a 12" tail, thread tail through remaining sts. and secure. Used remaining tail to create a loop for the pickle to hang from. Laugh self silly. Place in a washed pickle jar to confound family.
·Black worsted weight yarn (I used Lamb’s Pride Worsted in Onyx)
·Dark grey worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Cashmere Blend in Charcoal)
·Fiberfill or stuffing of your choice
·Small burgundy ribbon rose (available at craft/fabric stores – or make your own)
·Black felt (6mm/ 1/4 “ circles for eyes)
·Light grey felt (12mm/ 1/2 " circles for cheeks)
·Black thread
·Light grey thread
·Burgundy embroidery thread
·Size E (3.50 mm) or F (3.75 mm) hook, depending on how tightly you stitch
(I used an E hook.)
·Yarn needle, embroidery needle and sewing needle for finishing.
·Stitch marker to mark beginning of rounds.
·Blocking pins to block chain loops.
Abbreviations used (American):
ch – chain
dec – decrease (single crochet decrease)
R – round
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
* - repeat directions between pairs of asterisks the number of times indicated
Directions:
Cupcake Bottom – use dark grey yarn
Rounds are spirals, you’ll have to mark 1st stitch of each round.
R1 – Make magic loop and make 6 sc in loop; 6 sts.
R2 – Join and tighten loop; 2 sc in each st; 12 sts.
R3 - * 1 sc, 2 sc in next sc*- 6 times; 18 sts.
R4 - * 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* - 6 times; 24 sts.
R5 - * 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* - 6 times; 30 sts.
R6 - * 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc* - 6 times; 36 sts.
R7 – Through back loops only - * 4 sc, dec 1* - 6 times; 30 sts.
R8 - *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc* - 6 times; 36 sts.
R9 & 10– Sc 36; 36 sts.
R11 - *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc* - 6 times; 42 sts.
R12-14 – Sc 42; 42 sts.
Bind off, secure loose ends.
Cupcake Top –use black yarn
Rounds are again spirals.
R1 – Make magic loop and make 6 sc in loop; 6 sts.
R2 – Join and tighten loop; 2 sc in each st; 12 sts.
R3 - * 1 sc, 2 sc in next sc*- 6 times; 18 sts.
R4 - * 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* - 6 times; 24 sts.
R5 - * 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* - 6 times; 30 sts.
R6 - * 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc* - 6 times; 36 sts.
R7 - *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc* - 6 times; 42 sts.
R8-11 – Sc 42; 42 sts.
Continue to make chained edge:
R12 – *Sl st 1, Chain 7, skip 5, sl st 1* - 6 times; 54 sts.
R13 - *Sl st 1, Chain 10, skip chained 7, sl st 1; 84 sts.
Bind off, leave 18” tail to sew cupcake halves together.
Finishing:
·Attach ribbon rose to cupcake top as pictured.
·Attach felt eyes with black thread as pictured.
·Using light grey thread, make 2 or 3 stitches on black felt eyes, slightly to the right and down from the center of the eye.
·Attach light grey felt cheeks.
·With burgundy embroidery thread, stitch 2 straight lines as pictured for mouth.
·With tail of black yarn and yarn needle, sew top and bottom pieces together, catching top chain of each grey stitch from cupcake bottom and the back of each black stitch from the final sc round from the cupcake top.Stitch until only 2” (5 cm) of the piece is still open.
·Fill with stuffing, being careful not to overstuff.
·Finish stitching piece together.
·Mist top chains with water until fairly wet, and pin chains into place with blocking pins until dry.
·When piece is dry, remove pins and scare your neighbors with your gothic goody.
This is the pattern for the hat that I make the most. I took the best of about 7 patterns that I liked and tested it for every size listed. I have made it in stripes, ridges, plain, etc. I've even tie-dyed one. Fits newborn-large adult. If you make one, let me know! Featured in an earlier post as Badger's Beanie. (Pardon the really basic pattern, but I wrote it originally for a very beginning knitter.)
Pattern for Roll-brim Beanie (knit in the round)
Notes:
Gauge: 4 sts./in. (Row gauge is not such a big deal in this small project.)
Suggested needle size 7, or as needed to maintain gauge
Hats will stretch quite a few inches, and rolled brims allow for some growth.
I cast on using the long-tail method, which I recommend as it gives a neat and elastic edge.
Materials:
Worsted weight yarn - approx. 90-150 yarns depending on size. 100-120 yards will do all but the largest size.
Needles: 1 16" circular and one set of 5 dpns (double-pointed needles) except for the 2 smallest sizes which will have to be knitted on dpns only, one 12" circular and dpns, or likes socks on one long circular using the magic loop method, or on 2 circulars.
Stitch marker
Yarn needle
Instructions:
Cast on 50 (60, 70, 80, 90, 100) sts., place marker, and join making sure the stitches are not twisted. You will slip the marker at the end of each row.
Knit in plain stockinette for 18 (20, 24, 28, 30, 32) rows.
First decrease row: K8, k2tog until end of row.
Knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) rows.
Second decrease row: K7, k2tog until end of row.
Knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) rows.
Third decrease row: K6, k2tog until end of row.
Knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) rows.
Fourth decrease row: K5, k2tog until end of row. (Switch to dpns on this row, placing joins between dpns after a k2tog st. Knit with 5 dpns or on 2 circulars to reduce the tension on the joins between the needles. This will help prevent laddering between needles. You will have to slip your stitch marker to after the first st, or place a point protector on the back end of the dpn after the last st. of the row to keep your place.
Knit one row.
Fifth decrease row: K4, k2tog until end of row.
Knit one row.
Sixth decrease row: K3, k2tog until end of row.
Knit one row.
Seventh decrease row: K2, k2tog until end of row.
Knit one row.
Eighth decrease row: K2tog across row.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8" tail and, using a yarn needle, pull tail through the remaining stitches twice. Pull tail through center to the inside of the hat.
Finishing: Weave in ends, trim, and roll brim to desired length.
