Monday, September 21, 2009

Basic Roll-Brim Beanie Pattern




This is the pattern for the hat that I make the most. I took the best of about 7 patterns that I liked and tested it for every size listed. I have made it in stripes, ridges, plain, etc. I've even tie-dyed one. Fits newborn-large adult. If you make one, let me know! Featured in an earlier post as Badger's Beanie. (Pardon the really basic pattern, but I wrote it originally for a very beginning knitter.)

Pattern for Roll-brim Beanie (knit in the round)

Notes:
  • Gauge: 4 sts./in. (Row gauge is not such a big deal in this small project.)
  • Suggested needle size 7, or as needed to maintain gauge
  • Sizes: 13", 15", 17", 20", 22.5", 25" (newborn, older infant, toddler, lg.child/sm adult, med. adult, lg. adult.
  • Hats will stretch quite a few inches, and rolled brims allow for some growth.
  • I cast on using the long-tail method, which I recommend as it gives a neat and elastic edge.

Materials:
  • Worsted weight yarn - approx. 90-150 yarns depending on size. 100-120 yards will do all but the largest size.
  • Needles: 1 16" circular and one set of 5 dpns (double-pointed needles) except for the 2 smallest sizes which will have to be knitted on dpns only, one 12" circular and dpns, or likes socks on one long circular using the magic loop method, or on 2 circulars.
  • Stitch marker
  • Yarn needle
Instructions:
  1. Cast on 50 (60, 70, 80, 90, 100) sts., place marker, and join making sure the stitches are not twisted. You will slip the marker at the end of each row.
  2. Knit in plain stockinette for 18 (20, 24, 28, 30, 32) rows.
  3. First decrease row: K8, k2tog until end of row.
  4. Knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) rows.
  5. Second decrease row: K7, k2tog until end of row.
  6. Knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) rows.
  7. Third decrease row: K6, k2tog until end of row.
  8. Knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) rows.
  9. Fourth decrease row: K5, k2tog until end of row. (Switch to dpns on this row, placing joins between dpns after a k2tog st. Knit with 5 dpns or on 2 circulars to reduce the tension on the joins between the needles. This will help prevent laddering between needles. You will have to slip your stitch marker to after the first st, or place a point protector on the back end of the dpn after the last st. of the row to keep your place.
  10. Knit one row.
  11. Fifth decrease row: K4, k2tog until end of row.
  12. Knit one row.
  13. Sixth decrease row: K3, k2tog until end of row.
  14. Knit one row.
  15. Seventh decrease row: K2, k2tog until end of row.
  16. Knit one row.
  17. Eighth decrease row: K2tog across row.
  18. Cut yarn, leaving an 8" tail and, using a yarn needle, pull tail through the remaining stitches twice. Pull tail through center to the inside of the hat.
Finishing:
Weave in ends, trim, and roll brim to desired length.

13 comments:

Lauren said...

Thanks for this great pattern. I can't wait to try it!

SunflowerStories said...

Thanks for sharing your pattern! I am knitting this right now and have a question. This is my first hat (I'm a newbie!) and I want to make sure I am reading it right. When you say "k2tog until end of row" do you mean k2tog one time, then knit till the end or do you mean k2tog for the remaining stitches on that row?

I hope to get to my first decrease today, so I need to make sure I do it right. Thanks!

Anonymous said...

I chose this hat for a first time hat project. I followed the pattern for size 20" but ended up with a hat for a toddler with a point on the top. Oh well. Thanks for the pattern anyway.

Anonymous said...

Your badger beanie is missing a decrease row. Next to last decrease should be knit 1, knit 2 together. I followed your directions and had an extra stitch! It took me a little while to figure it out, but by doing the extra decrease it came out fine. Thank you for the pattern. I'm adding a flower and it's really cute! 22

Nancy Ward said...

I don’t understand number 4.,6.,and 8. Instructions. What does the (2,3,3,3) mean?

Joeyc28 said...

The numbers in the parenthesis refer to the size, I.e. when it says knit 1 (2,3,4,5,6) the “1” refers to the first or usually smallest size while the other numbers are in references to the different sizes depending on which one you’re making. Some patterns even have them color coded to simplify further.

Anonymous said...

I have the same question as SunflowerMom- With the decrease rows, is it K2 together 1x and then knit until end of the row?










Karen said...

For the sizes are the inches listed the circumference of the beanie? I used a worsted weight yarn, #7 dpn, gauge was 4 sts/in. Finished beanie is 14” in circumference though I followed pattern for toddler which should be 17” ☹️ Am I calculating and/or reading something incorrectly?

HK said...

Do you mean after line 16?

Jacqui said...

Thanks for this pattern, great instructions, I just added an extra decrease row K1, K2tog. Currently made two with strips with contrasting rolled brim. Thanks for posting x

Grace said...

A clarification for those like me who were confused by the wording: for the decrease row #1 it should read: *k8, k2tog* repeat *pattern* till end of row, etc. for each of the decrease rows. Also, Jacqui is correct that an additional decrease row is needed as the last decrease row: *k1, k2tog* till end of row.

Anonymous said...

Thank you so much for this comment Grace. My hat got small way too fast and I could see that something wasn’t right—figured it, then saw your comment. Should have read the comments first!

Anonymous said...

I love this pattern. It’s my third hat and it’s really built my confidence as a knitter. I’m making one for my dad for Xmas. Thank you